The brief, narrow, curved lugs along with the minute space between the ring and the edge of this case all appear thoughtfully made and, again, the drilled holes function as a nod towards the Luminor Due’s tool watch ancestors — even though this second chapter very clearly isn’t one.Something I could not get bored of above the three or two weeks that I’d the PAM674 was the slender crown shield bridge — and that, I know, certainly sounds like a competition for this month’s enviable “Nerdiest Sentence of the Month” award. It completely transforms the appearance of this omnipresent part. While the normal crown protectors I found at times were large for the sake of becoming big or simply simply too bulky, every time I watched this one peeking out from under a shirt sleeve, then I just had to flex my wrist and take a better look at it. Maybe that is just me, but something certainly ticked as this polished bridge sat so neatly nearby the complex corner of the case. If, for some reason, you want a comparable Panerai without a crown shield, the Radiomir 1940 PAM572 is fundamentally the same (hands-on here).Legibility is great, as the reflective outlines of the hands contrast nicely against the satin appearance of the dial. The dark gray sandwich dial of the Panerai Luminor Because 3 Days Automatic PAM674 actually has a very subtle sunburst completing to it that is totally unnoticeable under low-level states and stands outside just when struck by strong lighting at an angle. It is a nice, quality detail but one that will take the back seat alongside other dial elements. Lume is great, though as is ordinary for unconventional lume colors similar to this one in tan, the green glow is not as bright and durable as it is on regular Panerais.
The brief, narrow, curved lugs along with the second space between the strap and the border of this case all seem thoughtfully made and, again, the drilled holes serve as a nod towards the Luminor Due’s tool watch ancestors — even if this second chapter very clearly is not one.Something I could not get bored of above the three or so weeks that I had the PAM674 was that the slim crown protector bridge — and that, I understand, certainly seems like a contender for this month’s enviable “Nerdiest Sentence of the Month” award. It completely transforms the appearance of this omnipresent part. While the regular crown guards I found at times were large for the sake of being big or simply simply too bulky, every time I saw this one peeking out from under a shirt sleeve, I simply had to rotate my wrist and take a better look at it. Maybe that is just me, but something definitely ticked as this polished bridge sat so neatly nearby the intricate corner of the case. If, for whatever reason, you want a similar Panerai with no crown guard, the Radiomir 1940 PAM572 is fundamentally the same (hands-on here).Legibility is good, as the reflective outlines of the hands contrast nicely against the satin appearance of the dial. The dark grey sandwich dial of this Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic PAM674 actually has a very subtle sunburst finishing to it that is totally unnoticeable under low-light conditions and stands out just when struck by strong lighting at an angle. It is a nice, quality detail but one that will take the back seat alongside other dial elements. Lume is great, however as is ordinary for unconventional lume colors like this one in tan, the green glow isn’t as bright and lasting as it is on routine Panerais.
The dial includes Panerai’s signature sandwich construction and is a small busy by the brand’s standards, with a date and magnifier at 3 o’clock, an “8 Days” print in 6 o’clock that proudly proclaims the movement’s outstandingly long power book, and a small sub seconds dial at 9 o’clock. The dial is a profound matte green as well as the markers and palms feature beige Super-LumiNova. It has a handy power book of 192 hours (8 days) and features a quick zero-reset system for simple and exact setting of the moment. The movement is visible through a display caseback and a fantastic thing about it is the fact that it features a discreet power reserve indicator on the rear of the motion. Water resistance is 100m and the watch has a dark brown strap stamped with the OP emblem of Panerai.Next up, we’ve got the PAM 736 Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio, which is based upon the PAM 514. This comes in Panerai’s newer 47mm-wide Radiomir 1940s-style cushion case, which includes more conventional incorporated lugs. Such as the PAM 735, the PAM 736 has a profound matte green sandwich dial with beige Super-LumiNova. However, in comparison with the PAM 735, the PAM 736 includes a cleaner dial with only a simple date display at 3 o’clock and a sub seconds dial at 9 o’clock. If you ask me, I’d rather never have the date display, however I know a great deal of folks who would appreciate its practicality.The PAM 736 is powered by Panerai’s Calibre P.3000, an in-house hand-wound movement that’s also seen in a number of other hand-wound Panerai models. It defeats at 3Hz and has a power reserve of 72 hours (3 times). The Calibre P.3000 also has the ability to advance its hour hand by one hour increments — quite useful when traveling across time zones. The movement, which can be decently finished with bevels and brushed-finishing bridges, can be admired through the watch’s sapphire display caseback. Water resistance is 100m, which is fitting for a Panerai contemplating its dive watch roots.
In the event that you still count yourself among the loyal, you may add the PAM01389 for your collection for the price of $11,000. Just remember, cool guys do not look back in the explosion.Special edition watches that are only sold in boutiques or made in limited numbers are a good way for watch brands to acquire fans and watch lovers excited. Exclusivity is often a big deciding factor in regards to a watch purchase, and there’s no greater way of creating exclusivity than by publishing a watch in restricted numbers and especially in a colorway or design that collectors yearn for. Few watch manufacturers are as proficient at this game as Panerai is, having had a string of hits with past special edition watches. There’s the mythical Luminor 1950 PAM 127 “Fiddy” out of 2002; and more lately, the Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare or PAM 587 from 2014. Instead, they are different versions of current versions. But what makes them notable is their profound green dials. This isn’t the first time that Panerai got collectors excited with a simple color change. Last year, they did the same with four unique edition watches that came with metallic blue dials. Now, let us get into these new watches.We begin with this PAM 735 Panerai Radiomir 8 Days Titanio, which relies on the PAM 346. This comes from the classic 45mm-wide Radiomir cushion case with distinctive cable lugs, and as its title clearly states, it is made out of titanium.
For once, more than whatever minor design tweak has spawned a new Panerai reference, it’s the way the watch is being marketed which is quite notable. The Panerai Luminor Submersible Automatic Acciaio PAM731, using its limited-edition blue dial, is most surely a handsome and capable dive watch. However, as the very first Panerai to be offered exclusively online, it’s representative of some pressing current issues and how the watch industry is, very slowly, adapting to change.Panerai currently sells watches on line, but also the Panerai Luminor Submersible Automatic Acciaio PAM731 “E-Commerce Micro-Edition,” restricted to 100 pieces, cannot be purchased in stores – and that’s a first for Panerai. Time and again, we have discussed the systemic issues of the watch business here on aBlogtoWatch, especially in relation to sales and distribution, and the watch industry’s failure to take, use, and conform to the contemporary reality of online purchasing. This means in relation to media and advertising in addition to moving toward direct online sales rather than relying solely on third party retailers. The present outdated wholesale supply version together with an inventory glut has enabled the grey market to not only undercut luxury watch pricing but also undermine the all-important commodity that’s customer trust. You may discover many posts on these and related topics on our Watch Business topic page here.So, although the Panerai Luminor Submersible Automatic Acciaio PAM731 “E-Commerce Micro-Edition” watch might look like a single degree in the 90-degree turn that is necessary for the industry, it’s at least in the right direction. And it’s in the business of different signs that more brands are now waking up. Examples such as the Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday” limited-edition watch made for Fratellowatches.com and their #speedytuesday Instagram hashtag having sold out in four hours should at least get the brands’ attention. The convenience, competitiveness, and relaxation of the online buying experience for clients makes the transition to a proper online presence necessary for any watch brand that wants to survive.
The employed hourly indices are presently a razor’s edge thicker, the running small seconds hand at 9:00 is now a pleasant hue of blue, and the luminous application to the hands and indices is currently two-tone — the second hand glows blue to match the bezel pip, although all other markings glow green.Most notably though, the new 1389 was updated with Panerai’s latest automatic caliber: the P.9010, that carries the exact same double-barreled, 3-day power reserve as its in-house fabricated predecessor (the P.9000), but now adds an independently flexible hand hand — a feature that is becoming increasingly common on most modern Panerai models, and a boon for regular fliers.The something which has not changed between the 389 and the 1389, is that this remains, a very big watch at 47mm. Yes, it’s considerably lighter than a comparable 47mm PAM00372 in stainless steel, but the weight savings do little to reduce the view’s visual existence, which threatens to conquer at most angles. Nowadays, like most Panerai models, the 1389 does have generously downward-turned lugs, and a relatively (for its general size) conservative lug-to-lug measurement. But neither of these amends are quite enough to conquer the wearability limitations for all but those who have never skipped ‘arm day.’ Nevertheless, if you adore the undeniably cool aesthetic of this 1389, there is always the more traditionally-sized 42mm PAM682, but you miss out on the anti-magnetic capabilities and ceramic bezel, along with the capability for the dial to double as a serving plate at a pinch. Kidding aside, it is clear that the rest of the sector has been reacting to some return to smaller dimensions — 43mm seems to be the newest 42, down from the 45 and 47mm watches that formerly dominated Panerai’s modern collection. That’s why another 47mm watch in 2017 actually feels somewhat dated right out of the gate — despite its undeniably cool, and classic aesthetic. Trends-be-damned though, many die-hard Paneristi still would not have it any other way — that is likely why the newest continues to fly the flag as among the last holdouts of this decade’s large watch tendency.
Probably the only Panerai wristwatch that still sells for more than its original retail price (oh how times change), the Luminor Submersible Bronzo has enjoyed remarkable robustness of demand. The third iteration was unveiled just earlier this year, and now the total number of variants is four, with the latest being a one of a kind variant put together for a British charity.
Soon to be sold online at Sotheby’s, the new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo PAM00907 has a dark brown dial, in contrast to the military green and blue dials of the limited edition versions (the PAM 382, PAM 507 and PAM 671 respectively). Dial colour aside it is otherwise identical to the most recent Bronzo PAM 671 unveiled earlier this year, being powered by the P.9010 automatic movement that shows the time and date. Besides the watch, the winner of the lot will also get to visit the capacious, two-storey new Panerai boutique on New Bond Street.
Named The Panerai Experience Online, the auction runs from November 30 to December 15, and includes several other watches made specifically for the event. All proceeds from the sale will be donated to the Royal Yachting Association to help support Onboard, a programme that helps young people from all backgrounds go sailing (presumably only those who can’t afford a boat).
Once bidding is open, the catalogue and online bidding will be available on Sothebys.com.